Yung Kee 32-40 Wellington Street Central, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2522 1624 www.yungkee.com.hk

Novices might be startled at the sight of the beautifully coloured pei dan (also known as century eggs) that are served with pickled ginger to all diners. To eschew this delicacy would be to miss out on some of the best pei dan you’ll ever taste in Hong Kong, with its yolks still slightly runny. Regulars know to order certain things in advance: the roast goose livers, the tea-smoked pork belly, or, when in season, the hairy crab dishes and platefuls of tiny rice birds, which are eaten whole (except the beak). Yung Kee also makes soy sauce chicken and roast and barbecued pork.